Rock salt / salt and Trees

Tis the season (in temperate climates in the Northern Hemisphere) for slippery paths and roads.

In our risk adverse world, ice or even the threat of ice triggers an over reaction. Instead of clearing snow and ice or walking more carefully; rock salt and salt are spread to reduce the risk of slips/falls/claims (real or imaginary) for slips and falls.

This is multiplied by people not understanding the difference between an air frost and a ground frost. An air frost (the type that places ice on your windscreen), will not cause ice on the ground. Yet when a zero or sub zero temperature is reported, it can be a the start of an application of rock salt/ ice, when it is not needed.

Why  am I an Arborist writing about this?  It is because salt kills trees.  Please be aware of this and try not to place salt around trees.   

     

The importance of Mulching

To understand this, we think it is best to go for a walk in the woods. What is underfoot? A covering of composting vegetation, scrape this and the most wonderful organic compost/soil exists. Even the least green fingered person appreciates the majesty of this soil. 

Now walk down a street, what is around the trees in the pavement, tarmac, slabs, resin bonded gravel, bonded gravel, in grass verges, perhaps a tiny bit of soil, rarely a very small  area of mulch?

Mulch, preferable with  leaves, but woodchips are usually more appropriate, this increases Mycorrhizal activity ( http://www.rootgrow.co.uk/mycorrhizal-fungi.html ).  Mulch increases Mycorrhizal activity by upto 15 times over grass. Mulch as it composts adds organic matter to the soil, improving it's health. 

If you are  wymiscally minded, when you go on holiday or if you move abroad, you bring items home, from images to trinklets, to remind you  of home.  That is what trees feel with mulch, it reminds them  of home! The woodland floor  or the time before humans started removing leaves.  

Mulch is incredibly beneficial to the roots and quality of the soil around trees. It should be installed 3" deep and it is vital to keep the immediate area around the trunk clear (it is meant to be above ground and raising mulch up the  trunk is as bad as heaping soil up the trunk). How far should it be spread? As far as the roots spread! 

It is not a one off application, to maintain benefits it should be regularly topped up.  In addition to deterring weeds and grass maintenance machinery (strimmers damaging bark kills many trees), it adds organic material to the soil (soil is a living organism and needs to be fed, the soil feeds the roots (it's not quite as simple as that, but it essentially this) and it retains moisture in the soil. Most importantly it helps Mycorrhizal fungi.               

Leave Leaves Please

In the northern hemisphere in it is Autumn/Fall.

Just think of woodlands and before humans had lawns, pavements etc that needed to be kept clear of leaves.

Perhaps the original closed loop recycling, is the recycling of the valuable nutrients in leaves, by the tree that shed them.  

It is now becoming recognised that the removal of these nutrients (and the grass cuttings from lawns) removes this link and removes nutrients from the tree (lawn).

Also think about when wild flower meadows are created, advice is to remove the nutrients to make the soil poor which encourages (what are viewed as) wild flowers, you are advised to remove the cut grass.

In Hyde Park they recognise that the removal of leaves are inducing a deficiency in nutrients for mature trees and are now feeding trees to replace these lost nutrients (hopefully they will have found a way to use the leaves every year.

At Kew they used to have hundreds of volunteers to clear up leaves. Now they are mulched with mulching mowers where they fall and Tony Kirkham, swears the resulting small sections of leaves are consumed by worms overnight.    

The leaves shed by your trees, should be given back  to the trees.  If you can leave the in situ to compost down, fabulous. If on lawns a mulching mower (one that cuts up grass cuttings so that they are returned to the lawn) will cut the leaves up so small, that the worms will make short work of them and start the recycling.

If these two options are not available, you could compost the leaves down, then in spring gift them back to the tree as a mulch.

Close that loop please!     

   

Planting mistakes #3

Even if  you get the rest right, unless the tree receives assistance whilst establishing.

Establishment is the period during which the tree expands it's root system, it is established when it has a "natural" root  system (trees are planted with a small diameter nursery root system) and can look after itself  without the need for assistance.

During this period of deficit (when the root system is still expanding to a natural tree) the tree will need help.   This assistance is primarily watering (mulching;  potential pruning,  adjusting / removal  of guying/staking also are needed). Feeding is usually unwarranted as the soil if healthy should provide all that is required.

This period of deficit / establishment can last upto 5 years. The idea of 12 months aftercare to ensure establishment is utter nonsense. 

The people that specify planting projects and those such as planners who pass them have to ensure that the resources are in place for competent aftercare for 5 years.  To provide 5 years aftercare will  guarantee the proposed landscape after 5 years. How many new landscape schemes do you see  with dead trees, leaning trees, trees with epicormic/basal growth, stressed trees (read trees as trees and shrubs)?

There is a British Standard that specifies 5 years aftercare (along with right tree/right place/planting correctly)   BS8545:2014.  If only Local Authority planners specified this as a condition.   

For all planting the budget cannot just be spent on the trees and planting, it is better to plant less and provide a budget for sensible aftercare program.        

    

Planting mistakes #2

After identifying the right tree to plant in the right place, it is the actual planting process that is important.

The most common mistake is planting at the wrong level.

Essentially the trunk of the tree is designed by nature to be above ground and the roots (just) below the ground.  It sounds simple, but planting too deep is a very common (often fatal) error.

There is a line on the rootballed/container grown tree where the soil level was in the nursery. This is correct 99.9% of the time.

This line cannot be planted below ground level. It can be planted very slightly above.  Firstly the trunk is not designed to be below the ground level, it will rot and can be a place for disease to enter.  Secondly roots need to breathe (undertake a gaseous exchange), plant too deep, they have increased problems breathing.

If the soil can become waterlogged, it could be appropriate (after choosing the right species for these conditions) to plant slightly above the ground level, to allow some of the roots to breathe when waterlogging occurs.  Dress the exposed sides of the  rootball with topsoil to allow the roots to encompass these areas.   

      

 

 

Planting mistakes #1

Before I comment on the planting and aftercare, the mantra "right tree, right place" has to be underlined.

The tree has to be planted in the right environment;  damp/dry ground; thin topsoil; exposed location; coastal location, acidic / alkaline soils, hard surfaces,,,,,,

The tree has to thrive in it's location, to do this the location has to suit the tree.  How do you ascertain this?  Even the most experienced Arborist will note what is thriving locally, they have the added advantage of also identifying which are struggling and identifying their names. There are also many guides one the web to assist you.    

When assessing the tree, you have to think 50-100 yrs ahead, is there space for it to mature? You should not burden future owners with the cost of managing to control size. 

Some species have known risks i.e. disease, pests,  large branch detachment when mature, suckering through their root systems, high moisture demand (subsidence risk)....

Ideally the tree should fulfill it's function (screening/wildlife/ornamental) and compliment the locality.

Ask an Arborist if you are unsure! 

The shape / size of a tree.

There are two aspects to the form of a tree, when considering which tree to plant (or where to transplant a tree to).

The first is the ultimate size of the tree, an arborist will automatically visualise the mature tree in the proposed location.  There are trees that even at maturity are small, others massive and all sizes in between.   

The second is the shape of the tree, it has to fit the space, there are wide spreading, columnar conical, weeping, rounded canopies ... trees.  

We do not want to plant trees that will require future management to control their ultimate size or shape. This is an unfair burden to place on future generations and if often detrimental to the tree.

When selecting trees, it is prudent to understand  the future size of the tree.  

Notwithstanding this you could take the approach of many Local Authorities and plant trees which if left to mature would be the wrong tree, but they are planted with a set time span, so they are replaced after 20-30 years. This is a pragmatic approach, especially in a risk adverse climate, not allowing them to get too large/having too much influence. Please note, this Local Authority approach is an informed expert assessment of each tree and each location.      

 

      

 

Autumn tints

We are about to enter autumn and apparently the weather we have had this summer in the UK will result in better than usual tints.

Whilst all deciduous trees have leaves that change colour, some retain these autumn tinted leaves for longer and others have better autumn colours.  A few have booth better colours and for longer.

One tree drops all it's yellow autumn tinted leaves at once, creating a yellow carpet of leaves.

There are also many trees that have the highly desired autumn colours, but also have area(s) of interest (flowers, fruit, leaves, form, bark, beneficial to wildlife).

When prospective clients ask us for advice on which tree to plant, after consideration over ultimate tree size (right tree for right place) and listening to the preferences of the client, after ensuring their planting location is suitable for the tree. We try to recommend one of these multi-faceted trees  to provide many areas of interest through the seasons, to provide delight throughout the year. 

      

Tree Moving / Tree Transplanting

We offer a comprehensive tree, hedge,  shrub and habitat transplanting.  Our Tree Spades include the largest in the UK, the Stocker 8 2.16 metre Tree Spade as well as a fleet of smaller Tree Spades.

When our Tree Spades cannot gain access or the specimens are either too large or too small we transplant using  rootball techniques. With this method we can move even the largest trees and hedges without reducing their canopy.

The optimum time to transplant trees is September-December so if you have any potential projects give us a call 01277 849990 . If you can provide us with the rough diameter (across the trunk) at around 20cm we can usually provide a guideline quote over the phone.

 

 

 

London Tube Strikes

I wish I could come back in ten years, when all tube trains are fully automated.  I could then reflect on how the strike action has accelerated this process, with a how to shoot yourself in the foot appreciation of the striking tube drivers.  

However we have to work with the impact of these strikes also  I have the nagging feeling that it is going to take a lot longer than ten years, if at all !!!!!        

Hedge Moving

There is a misguided understanding of transplanting hedges.  When Ruskins move a hedge,  you end up with the same hedge  in a new location.  We do not accept that the way to transplant a hedge is to heavily reduce it or coppice it.    

We ensure that the visual amenity and environmental benefits of the hedge are transferred to the new location.  This has to be supported by a realistic watering programme to assist the hedge whilst it re-establishes.

 

    

  

Being contrary, wanting a cool and damp summer

As an Arborist I have a higher than average empathy for trees. When I look at the weather forecast, in spring and summer I do not want to see high temperature, sunny days and lack of rain.  

I want to see meaningful rain,  mild temperature and hopefully some cloud.

Trees can easily get stressed by lack of moisture and heat, especially when it is prolonged. If it is a extended dry period, if water tables lower this can be horrible for trees, if it goes beyond their root systems.

I also have  young children, a Mountain Bike mad teenage son and like the outdoors. So I will settle for tree friendly weather for weekdays and hot sunny weather at weekends !  

Trees & Hot and dry weather

During spells of hot and dry weather, your trees (including shrubs), will feel it as well as you!

Any trees planted or transplanted within the the last 5 years and all those in containers will need assistance. If any trees/plants show signs of trees, water them.  Primarily this assistance is an increase in watering (more each time and more often).  Plants will use more water during  hot times.  I think this is a rare design flaw.  

The main way they cool down is by transpiring (sweating like we do), they create a ready brek glow (for those of you who do not remember these ads, it is a surrounding of warmth (in the ads) around kids who had eaten  it for breakfast.  

So at a time when moisture in the soil / container is usually in short supply,(due to lack of rain); the tree is using/losing it at an increasing rate as the temperature increases, as they try to cool down.  When a dry wind is present this is magnified as the ready brek glow is blown away.

With trees/plants in containers, if you can, move them into the shade.   If trees/plants are surrounded by hard surfaces, this will increase the effect of heat.      

My Tree is unhappy - what do I do?

The last blog dealt with the signs that a plant can give that it is under stress. This one deals with how to mitigate.

1) Look closely at the tree/plant, can you see anything? Does the soil look dry /wet, are there infestations of anything,  is it at a (new) lean, is there any damage to the bark...

2) It is most likely that the cause is to do with watering when signs occur when it is hot /dry.  The rectification could be water more frequently / more each time, or if ponding occurs for prolonged periods (give it a chance to drain), you could need to reduce watering.

3) If it is an infestation, try to identify  the pest and treat accordingly.  

4) If the bark is being eaten or is being damaged by mowers / strimmers, protect the trunk.

Next blog, I will talk about how to give your tree other assistance   

      

Monitoring your trees / plants

In the northern hemisphere summer is with us, this is the potentially the most stressful time for trees and all plants, with a combination of lack of moisture and increased  heat.  

Newly planted/transplanted, all container grown and all trees surrounded by hard surfaces and close proximity to structures (reflected heat) are at increased risk. This is due to their lack of a natural (sized)  root system found with young mature and mature trees.  How do you know if they are suffering?

1) Firstly have empathy for them, know when they are likely to be feeling stressed (and help them to overcome this).

2) Are the leaves drooping /wilting?  Have they lost their lustre/changed colour ?  Is the specimen dropping leaves ? Are leaves dead on the tree? Is there dieback in the canopy? Is the specimen creating    epicormic / basal growth.   

3)  The next blog will be about what to do if any in 2) occur, call us if they are already exhibiting these signs.   

Pruning

Ideally the tree or shrub selected should be allowed to mature without any management to control it's size.

There are however many circumstances when pruning is necessitated, to direct growth where it is required, to restrict growth where it is not, to stimulate flowering/fruit or to remove defects i.e. crossing branches.

When pruning, leave a small collar, do not take right back to the trunk/branch, the smaller surface area, will make it easier to heal.

Pruning should be planned and reviewed as you progress, we often advise to do it with a drink in the other hand, it will slow you down.  Visualise the flowing of energy and pruning diverts the energy where you need it or away from where you don't. 

RHS Chelsea Flower Show

It was a delight to meet potential customers, existing customers and past customers at the Show. Where we have undertaken to assist you, we will be contacting you shortly, where you have taken our contact details, we await your call or email! We look forward  to assisting you.

The two most concerning aspects of the show (apart from the weather which was sub-optimal/English) were:

i) Only one exhibitor concerned with soil. What do (nearly all) plants grown in and rely on?

ii) There was no stand (for the first time ever we understand) by the Royal Hospital. Apparently they had to take this decision as they were unable to make a profit due to the cost of the stand.

 

 

  

RHS Chelsea Flower Show

We are on our stand on MR1 (top right of showground) all this week.  If you are one of the 161,000 visitors, please  come and see us for a chat!  

Existing customers are especially welcome, but it is potential customers with a problem  that they are not sure can be solved, we would love to see, to listen to the explanation of their problem, be  it, screening, replacement trees, transplanting of trees/hedges/shrubs, specimen trees, commemorative trees, compacted soils, trenches through root systems, locating roots.....  and advise if we can solve their problem, then in the majority of cases feel their relief when we assure them that we can help.

It is amazing how little attention is paid to soil health at this Horticultural Show. We will scour the show and provide  links to all the exhibitors that mention this huge issue. 

Council young tree planting - the impact of budget cuts

Whilst there has undoubtedly been a reduction in new tree planting, it is the neglect of recently planted trees that this rant is concerned with.

I see on my travels hundreds of trees planted in verges and pavements, that have (against the odds with inadequate aftercare) established. After doing the hard part, the reduction in tree care budgets means that the epicormic and basal growth is not being removed.  

In addition to the issues visually with this, it is the impact it will have  when it gets drier, hotter and more stressful for the trees, that vexes me.  

When trees are stressed this new epicromic growth will take energy away from higher up the tree, potentially leading to dieback. If it was removed the energy would have no option but to flow to the canopy, now it will take the easy option and it will be tempted to remain with the epicormic growth, here is does not have to battle gravity as much.

This is an unintended consequence of the budget cuts and not in keeping with the much hear green agenda.